Bali Coffee: Origin's New Wave

Turning the pages of this beautifully bound book transports me instantly to Bali. It’s a marvel how the radiant sun shining over Ubud’s paddy fields is reflected so brilliantly off the printed page. Vignettes of Balinese life are interspersed throughout the book, from offerings to the gods to scenes of everyday traffic. You hear the sounds, see the light, feel the textures, and for that moment — even better if you’re reading it with an actual cup of Balinese coffee on the side — your spirit is lifted up and you are reminded once more of the Balinese quintessence that never fails to bring such calm and serenity.

Like any love letter, this book is more deeply felt than rationalised. You might pick it up expecting an expository on the titular ‘New Wave’, which is briefly touched on as a thesis but never quite fully fleshed out. Still, food and cultural anthropologists would do well to take note, and consider a proper academic undertaking of their own on this curious subject.

You might also expect to learn about the details of the processes throughout the supply chain that connects coffee-producing and coffee-consuming countries. The book would whet your appetite for that, if only in sips, and perhaps understandably so, as the fine technicalities of coffee-making truly do require the sort of hands-on experience and appreciation of the terroir to which the printed paper cannot possibly do justice. What the book does beautifully is in teasing out the human stories behind the production. One of the protagonists who came from a long, time-honoured line of wood-carving artisans shared his candid story about choosing coffee over carving, bringing along his parents and children. But it's somewhat comforting that some still chose to pass on the wood-carving legacy, celebrating the family's newfound art with realistic 'coffee-making implements' carved out of wood.

What's clear is that the book is a veritable labour of love — the quality of the cloth-binding, the tint of orange consistently applied across the design and pages, the line illustrations evoking Balinese traditional motifs and design all reflect the ‘New Wave’ of artistry and craftsmanship that propels Bali into contemporary conversation.

The section on Seniman’s role in pioneering the Indonesian version of the coffee flavour wheel is particularly inspiring and instructive. Not only does it shed light on the vital importance of reclaiming local wisdom and reading tastes and experiences through a critical lens, it also explains the steps other coffee-producing countries and communes around the world can take in developing their very own wheels. It celebrates diversity and inclusivity in the best ways possible and sparks ideas and surely creative conversations far beyond Bali or just the realm of coffee for that matter.

This is one tome to keep close to one's heart, a balm for the pandemic-weary soul, a dear companion while waiting for a time when sipping a cup of Kintamanis at Seniman in Ubud becomes possible once more.

P.S. The smooth and speedy delivery of the book via DHL Express is worth a shout-out, especially at the very reasonable shipping fee. I'd placed the order on Christmas Eve, and received the item in Singapore on 27 January. Must be record time for deliveries during a festive period. Thanks to the Seniman team for processing the order so swiftly!